Insulating the house from the inside quickly and inexpensively

Insulating the house from the inside quickly and inexpensively

Need to insulate your house? High quality and cheaper...? Here are some tips for thermal insulation of house structures - read the article on protecting a home from the inside.

It's more comfortable in an insulated house; the heat lasts longer in winter, but vice versa in summer, and without air conditioning, the heat is not so annoying.

With thermally insulated house structures, you can save several hundred dollars. ($) per season. Insulation will pay for itself over time, depending on the cost of energy initial costs.

The only question is: how to properly insulate a house and insulation installers Central Coast  ? In order not to harm the structures and not waste money (not small ones) in vain.

We insulate the house from the inside - we save 

A construction specialist will tell you that the building structure needs to be protected from the outside. Insulation from the inside is necessary when this cannot be done from the outside. For example, there is a beautiful, expensive facade. Or behind the wall is someone else's cold room, for example, a warehouse. Or you want to save money right now, regardless of the consequences.

A beautiful house needs to be insulated from the inside.

But creating a warm home is not just about insulating walls. More heat tends to escape through the attic floor (the attic is not residential), and a lot is also lost through the floor. This is if the windows and doors have already been replaced (insulated), which is what needs to be done first.

It is necessary to insulate the house comprehensively. First, the windows and doors, then the attic floor, or the roof itself if the attic is residential.

How to make a warm attic

It is much easier to lift the insulation into the attic and spread it in a layer over the ceiling than to try to adapt it to the top from the inside.

Therefore, you should follow the path of least resistance. The junk is removed from the attic, and the ceiling is cleaned. Then, it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier - polyethylene film with an overlap of 20 cm, and then insulation is laid. If the attic is uninhabited and the ceiling is fire-resistant, then foam plastic, which is poisonous when burned and can be eaten by rodents, can be used for insulation along the top. But it is cheaper and very effective as a heat insulator.

In the attic, for a temperate climate zone, you need to put a layer of polystyrene foam at least 15 centimeters thick. Less is not profitable.

PSB-25 insulation is laid tightly in sheets in 2 layers, with the seams bandaged so that air convection does not occur. Where it isn't easy, it is covered with polystyrene foam crumbs on polyethylene (especially in the corners).

You can put wide boards or chipboards on top for inspection, storing things, or repairs. But full-fledged floors need to be made on joists. Or lay the floating floor on firm extruded polystyrene foam.

Insulation of floors on the inside of the house

If we are talking about wooden floors, insulating them from the inside is more expensive. Those. It would help if you built a second subfloor.

But the concrete floor is mainly insulated only from the inside by laying additional layers - a heat insulator and a layer of floating screed.

The usual technology for insulating wooden floors is laying insulation between load-bearing joists.

But, if the ceiling height allows, the existing non-insulated floor can be used as a rough floor, and a new one can be built above it.

Then, the logs (beams, boards on edge) are laid across the rough logs (along the board). Their height is at least 10 cm - the thickness of the thermal insulation layer plus the ventilation. Gap.

It is advisable to use counterflashing here so the logs do not become cold bridges.

Mineral wool is used since the smoke-hazardous foam is not fenced off the living space.

Cotton wool is laid on the subfloor in a layer of at least 10 cm. The top is carefully insulated from the living space with a unique, durable construction vapor barrier over the walls. A ventilation gap is left, and a floorboard is laid on top as usual.

We insulate the walls of the house.

It is not advisable to fence off the house's walls from the inside with insulation and leave them at the mercy of frost and possible moisture from dew that has fallen from the steam.

But if the walls are made of foam concrete, then this cannot be done - they will collapse too quickly.

But if the walls are made of dense materials - brick, concrete, slag concrete- all that remains is to fuse them with a vapor-tight insulation installed inside the building.

Therefore, to insulate the walls of a house from the inside, it is better to use only extruded polystyrene foam - a complete vapor barrier. Or, with a very crooked fence that is difficult (expensive) to level, use high-density sprayed polyurethane foam between the sheathing that was hung in advance, which can then be covered indoors with panel materials - similar to frame construction.

If the wall is flat enough to put sheets of extruded polystyrene foam on it without gaps in the glue, then you should do just that - it will be cheaper. We glue sheets of plasterboard with a total thickness of 3 cm onto this expanded polystyrene to make a dense, fireproof partition.

Extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation.

The thickness of these types of insulation is preferably from 7 cm so that such actions are feasible. The main requirement is complete contact with the wall and no gaps between the sheets. 

Installing disc dowels for securing the heat insulator or creating holes in this layer (in the vapor barrier layer) is not allowed.

In this way, it will be possible to insulate the house's walls from the inside to retain their original physical properties for as long as possible, and an unfavorable environmental situation will not be created inside.

But as calculations show, insulating the house from the outside is much more profitable with cheaper polystyrene foam using the wet facade technology or with mineral wool - a ventilated facade.

If you use vapor-permeable materials - mineral wool, polystyrene foam - steam will move outward through the wall, condensing on the cold surface, in any crack, wall cavity, and in the insulation itself. This could be better.